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A 16-day mammal and bird watching holiday
to the forests and mountains of Rwanda in search of
Mountain Gorillas, Chimpanzees and a wealth of other
animal and birdlife.

Following independence this small Central
African nation leaped to fame as the land of 'Gorillas
in the Mist', adopted home of Dian Fossey and the most
important refuge for the rare Mountain Gorilla. Gorilla
tracking in the Virungas is the country's premier attraction,
supplemented by the wildlife and game of Akegera National
Park, the incredible biodiversity of the extensive Nyungwe
Rainforest and the beautiful Lake Kivu.
This is a traditional mammal and birdwatching
safari with leisurely walks in the forest reserves and
game drives in Akagera National Park; please note that
some of the forest trails can be steep and uneven in
places and are poorly maintained. The day's Mountain
Gorilla tracking can be very strenuous, however, but
is an experience not is missed! Chimp tracking in Nyungwe
can also be tiring.
A typically equatorial climate ensures
that the weather will be varied, and you may encounter
some rain. Days will generally be warm, hot at lower
altitudes, but overcast conditions are frequent, particularly
in the forest and mountain areas.
The cloud forest of the Virungas can
be cold and damp so please bring a rain coat and a fleece!
Nights will be mild to warm, cooler at higher altitudes.
Date: 10th September
- 25th September 2006
Itinerary
DAY 1 (Saturday, 10th September)
IN FLIGHT
We depart from Heathrow airport on
a Kenya Airways or British Airways scheduled overnight
flight to Nairobi, Kenya.
DAYS 2 - 4 (Sunday, 11th -
Tuesday, 13th September) AKAGERA NATIONAL PARK
Arriving into Nairobi early morning
we connect with a Kenya Airways flight to Kigali, the
capital city of Rwanda, arriving around midday. After
passing through the formalities of immigration and customs
we will meet our local guides and drive east for around
three hours to Akagera National Park. The re-building
of Kigali will be much in evidence as we travel, though
the cavities of shells and bullet marks on the government
buildings are a reminder of the recent past. On arrival
at Akagera, a mere 30 minutes from the Tanzanian border,
we will check into the comfortable Akagera Game Lodge
our base for the next 3-nights of the tour.
Set at a relatively low altitude on
the border with Tanzania, Akagera National Park is dominated
scenically by a labyrinth of swamps and lakes that follow
the meandering course of the Akagera River. Although
much reduced in the past few years, Akagera still covers
approximately 90,000 hectares of archetypal African
savannah landscape of tangled acacia woodland interspersed
with open grasslands and reed-fringed swamps. Whilst
the park has the feel of an East African game reserve
you should not come with the idea of finding the same
concentrations of game to be found in the neighbouring
national parks of Kenya and Tanzania. Akagera is home
to a variety of game but not the large herds of other
east African destinations. Nevertheless, this is still
an exciting reserve in which to spend a few days and
an interesting contrast to the more mountainous latter
days of the tour. There are still plenty of animals
around and the birdlife is quite exceptional. Mammals
include a healthy population of Elephant and Buffalo,
plus 11 species of antelope including Impala, Common
Duiker, Defassa Waterbuck, Bushbuck, Oribi, Tsessebe,
Cape Eland and the rare Sable Antelope. Hippos are present
in impressive numbers in the lakes and rivers and Zebra
and Giraffe still roam the more open acacia dotted plains.
Incidentally, the current population of around 30 'Masai'
Giraffe are descendants of a herd introduced from Kenya
in 1975.
The birdlife remains as abundant as
ever and includes such species as Martial Eagle, Bateleur,
Grey Kestrel, Blue-naped Mousebird, Broad-billed Roller,
Bennett's Woodpecker, Blue-headed Coucal, Lesser and
Greater Honeyguides, Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike, Black
Tit and Pin-tailed Whydah. Lesser Striped Swallows and
Lilac-breasted Rollers will be among the birds in the
grounds of our lodge, together with other East African
species such as Red-cheeked Cordon-bleus, White-headed
Black Chats, and the Red-faced Barbet, a speciality
of the park and rift valley endemic.
We will spend our time here exploring
the wide range of habitats to be found within Akagera
National Park. On one day we will concentrating our
efforts on the eastern third of the park, where an extensive
network of wetlands, dominated by a series of small
to medium sized lakes are to be found. Some of these
lakes support large swathes of papyrus swamp, home to
the rarely seen but mythical Dodo-like bird, the Shoebill.
Waterbirds are plentiful here and we are sure to encounter
a wide range of heron species including Goliath, Purple,
Squacco and Rufous-bellied Herons, plus other waterbirds
such as African Openbill, Saddle-billed Stork, African
Darter, Spur-winged Goose, Long-toed Lapwing and Spur-winged
Plover. Overhead hunting Pied Kingfishers hang in the
air and in the light woodland of the lakeside we hope
to find such sought after species as Ross’s Turaco
and Papyrus Gonolek. To increase our chances of seeing
both Shoebill and the enigmatic, but extremely shy,
Sitatunga Antelope we hope to organise a boat to take
us around Lac Ihema. Both of these denizens of the papyrus
swamps are extremely elusive and difficult to locate,
but with a little luck and the knowledge of the local
guides we just may strike lucky. Other rare swamp dwellers
include Lesser Moorhen, Red-chested Pygmy Crake, White-winged
Warbler and Carruther's Cisticola, whereas commoner
inhabitants include African Marsh Harrier, Black Crake,
Southern Carmine Bee-eater and Norhern Brown-throated
Weaver. We are also sure to encounter many Hippos, which
are still present in the park in impressive numbers.
In the evening we hope to organise
a night drive to search for some of the nocturnal residents.
These are likely to include sightings of Bushbaby, Blotched
(Large-spotted) Genet and possibly leopard.
We will also spend a morning ascending
towards the high grasslands of the Mutumba Hills, where
we have our best chance of seeing Oribi, Topi and Eland
with the possibility of sighting Bohor Reedbuck. A wide
range of raptors are present in Akagera and as well
as Lizard Buzzards, Brown Snake and Long crested Eagles,
there is the chance of White-backed and Ruppell's Griffon
Vultures, Bataleur, Marshall Eagle and more familiar
palaearctic species such as Tawny Eagle and Black-shouldered
Kite. We will also search for some of the species more
associated with the Brachystegia woodland of southern
Tanzania such as Crested Barbet and Souza’s Shrike.
DAY 5 (Wednesday, 14th September)
KIGALI
This morning we will have the chance
of an early morning game drive from Akagera, before
setting off after lunch to Kigali. In the afternoon
we will visit the Genocide memorial in Kigali. One cannot
begin to understand the achievements of Rwanda since
1994, until the sheer horror of the genocide and the
countries colonial history is grasped. The Kigali memorial
has taken many years to complete as its open criticism
of the UN and the west has limited funding sources.
The memorial takes one through the colonial history
and events that led up to the genocide, and brings home
to us the constant repetition within the human race
of systematic killing of one minority by another. It
enables one to comprehend, if not understand, the scale
of the horror that the survivors of this country have
endured. Visiting the memorial is critical to gain an
insight into this remarkable country, whilst clutching
on to the positive thought that Hutus and Tutsi’s
are now rebuilding the country together. We stay this
evening in a comfortable Kigali hotel.
DAY 6 (Thursday, 15th September)
NYUNGWE FOREST
Today is largely a day of travel as
we head southwest to the wonderful rainforest reserve
of Nyungwe. As we leave Kigali, the small marsh on our
right reveals the source of the Nile that eluded Livingstone.
We will stop briefly in Nynza to visit the traditional
ancient palace of the Mwami (Rwandan king) before heading
south to Butare, where we will take lunch, with the
chance to purchase handicrafts. On our way to Nyungwe
Forest we can, for those who wish, arrange a visit the
shocking genocide memorial at Murambi where over 27,000
people lost their lives.
We will arrive at Uwinka in the late
afternoon, to stay at the ORTPN Resthouse, on the edge
of the reserve and the Gisakura Tea estate, our base
for the next 4 nights. Incidentally ORTPN stands for
'Office Rwandais du Tourisme et des Parcs Nationaux'
- the Rwanda Tourist Board.
DAY 7 (Friday, 16th September)
NYUNGWE FOREST
The wildlife of the Nyungwe Forest
is dramatically different to that of Akagera. Nyungwe
is one of the last remaining substantial rainforest
belts that once covered the extent of the Albertine
Rift and the largest tract of montane forest left in
Africa. As a consequence it is a hugely important area
for both mammals and birds. A amazing 13 species of
primate are found here, including Chimpanzee, Ruwenzori
Colobus, and the stunning l’Houst’s Monkey.
The reserve has recorded 29 of the 37 Albertine Rift
endemics including the almost unknown Albertine Owlet,
a bird we will make a special effort to see.
Our first morning will involve a walk
into pristine and dramatic forest as we follow a ridge
to an area of swamp. Here there is the chance of seeing
l’Hoest’s and Silver Monkeys and, if really
fortunate, perhaps the rare Dent’s Mona Monkey.
The other focus of the morning walk will be the diverse
birdlife that occurs at Nyungwe and, although forest
birding can be difficult and frustrating at times, we
would hope to see such species as Red-collared Mountain
Babbler, Great Blue Turaco, Rwenzori Turaco, Handsome
Francolin, Regal Sunbird, White-headed Woodhoopoe, Mountain
Masked, Black-throated and Chestnut throated Apalis
and Mountain Greenbul. Amongst the ground vegetation
we will search for Red-faced Crombec, and Short-tailed
Warbler, whilst rift endemics species such as Rwenzori
Batis, Double-collared Sunbird, Kivu Ground Chat and
Grauer’s Warbler are all possible.
In the afternoon, should we have yet
to encounter Rwenzori Colubus we will travel to an area
where a habituated group is present. These handsome
primates are often seen in troops numbering several
hundred individuals and are certainly one of the many
highlights present in this wonderfully diverse area.
We would also hope to encounter a different range of
birds here, species more associated with the rainforest
edge.
Should conditions be favourable we
will take a night walk in the hope of encountering some
of the four species of prosimian, or possibly a African
Civet or a Serval as well as trying to find some of
the rare night birds, such as Rwenzori Nightjar, of
this unique forest. We will overnight once again at
the simple ORTPN Resthouse.
DAY 8 (Saturday, 17th September)
NYUNGWE FOREST
This morning the pace of the walk will
change as we try to track Chimpanzee. This will be likely
to involve a long trek into the forest at a rate too
quick to enjoy any of the rainforest birds, but the
excitement will be palpable as we follow our guides
to try and catch a glimpse of these very shy apes. We
are sure to hear their eerie cries drifting through
the forest and, if fortune walks with us, we may even
catch sight of the animals themselves. During the morning's
walk we are also likely to encounter other troops of
primates including Grey-cheeked Mangabey and more Rwenzori
Colobus. The walking is likely to be quite strenuous
this morning, so in the afternoon we will enjoy a more
leisurely wildlife outing. Finally we return to the
ORTPN Resthouse for our third night in the forest.
DAY 9 (Sunday, 18th September)
NYUNGWE FOREST
We will spend our final day at Nyungwe
exploring the Kamiranzovu waterfall trail. Having returned
to our leisurely walking pace once more, we can explore
at a speed more suited to searching for birds and mammals
such as Rwenzori Turaco, Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher,
Bar-tailed Trogon, Elliott's Woodpecker and Red-throated
Alethe as well as a selection of primates. We return
to the ORTPN Resthouse once more for our final night
in Nyungwe Forest.
DAY 10 (Monday, 19th September)
KIBUYI
This morning we can enjoy our last
walk in the Nyungwe Forest before continuing west after
breakfast towards Cyangugu and the Democratic Republic
of the Congo. Turning north before the border, we will
take a poor road, which skirts the edge of Lake Kivo,
passing through picturesque tea plantations, to our
overnight stop at Kibuyi on the shore of the Lake. We
will overnight at a simple hotel in Kibuyi, from where
we can enjoy an early evening drink whilst watching
the waterbirds of the lake flying over to roost.
DAY 11 (Tuesday, 20th September)
PARC NATIONAL DES VOLCANS
This morning, after an early breakfast,
we will continue north towards the Parc National des
Volcans, Volcanoes National Park. En route we will stop
at the edge of the fragmented forest reserve of Gishwati.
In the 1930s this reserve rivalled Nyungwe in size,
but deforestation and agricultural encroachment has
sadly reduced and divided this once pristine forest
into two separate blocks of woodland covering less than
280 square miles. It does remain an interesting place
for wildlife, especially birds, however, and our brief
foray into the forest could reveal a few more of the
montane rift endemics.
On leaving Gishwati we will travel
a further 40 kilometres to lunch in Gisenyi, the most
northerly port on the Rwandan part of Lake Kivu. Here
we will sit near the shores of the lake amongst the
splendour of old colonial buildings and the roosting
fruit bats and enjoy a good meal. If time permits, we
may be able to arrange a visit the Imbabazi orphanage,
established by Rosamond Hasley Carr, a close friend
of Dian Fossey.
The final leg of the journey will take
approximately two hours after which we will check into
our comfortable lodge for the next three days and overlooking
the Parc National des Volcans
DAYS 12/14 (Wednesday, 21st
- Friday, 23rd September) PARC NATIONAL DES VOLCANS
We now have our final 3 full days to
explore the lush cloud forests of the Virunga Volcanoes
and the opportunity to undertake one of the most moving
and thrilling wildlife experiences this planet has to
offer, a face to face encounter with a Mountain Gorilla.
The Parc National Des Volcans protects the Rwandan side
of the Virunga Mountains and covers 13,000 hectares
of cloud forest, bamboo forest, tall Hagania woodland
and afro-alpine moorland. It was here that Dian Fossey
brought the plight of the Gorilla to the world's attention
in the 1970s and it was here that she was buried in
1985. Her legacy lives on, however, and the Gorillas
of the Virungas now number in excess of 300 individuals
(of which around 140 live on the Rwandan side), almost
double the population of 30 years ago. The forests here
are more open than neighbouring Uganda and the gorillas
are generally easier to find and watch. An encounter
with such a powerful but gentle animal, so similar to
ourselves in many ways, is a very poignant experience
impossible to put in to words, but one that will live
in the memory for ever and provide a fitting finale
to our time in Rwanda.
We include one Gorilla Permit in the
cost of the holiday, which entitles the holder to spend
one hour with one of the habituated Gorilla groups.
Additional permits for a second day's tracking may be
available at an additional cost. Should there be a choice,
the more athletic members of the group may wish to undertake
the 2-6 hour walk to see the Susan Group. The length
of the walk is unpredictable, but it ascends quite steeply
up the slopes of Mount Karaoke. In 2004 the Susan Group
was found within an hour and a half, but three to six
hours seem a more usual time-span. The advantage of
this group is that it numbers 35 individuals including
three silverback males, Purina, Wakened and Nyagakanga,
along with several youngsters including twins. This
can lead to an unpredictable encounter with Gorillas
appearing from everywhere, once you have caught up with
them.
A Visit to the Sabinyo Group will offer
a far less exhausting walk of 30-90 minutes on a far
more gentle gradient. The Sabinyo Group consists of
nine individuals, which includes two silverbacks. Observers
of both groups claim that the Sabinyo Group is more
cohesive and so tend to yield more examples of interactive
behaviour and socialisation. There may also be the chance
to visit Group Thirteen if they are on the Rwandan side
of the border or the Amahoro Group, whose distance from
base is intermediate in difficulty between Susa and
Sabinyo.
As previously mentioned, on finding
the Gorillas you will be allowed exactly 1 hour with
them. Please note that on rare occasions this can be
shortened at the discretion of the tracker/guide should
he feel that the Gorillas are becoming distressed. Please
can we also ask you to take careful note of the information
on the rules and regulations of Gorilla tracking, a
copy of which will be sent to you on booking. Depending
on the whereabouts of the Gorilla group in question
you may return to the lodge around lunch time or late
afternoon. The rest of the afternoon is therefore free
to relax or birdwatch in the lodge grounds.
During our time in the Parc National
des Volcans we will also head out in search of the little-known
Golden Monkey, an endangered bamboo-associated race
of the Blue Monkey endemic to the Albertine Rift. Now
believed to be extinct from both Gishwati and Nyungwe,
Volcanoes National Park holds the only viable population
of this attractive species, one that has only recently
been habituated to humans. Birdwatching is difficult
whilst Gorilla tracking, but this walk should be more
leisurely and give us more time to look for some of
the 180 species of bird that inhabit the park. These
may include such species as Rwenzori Turaco, Rwenzori
Batis, Strange Weaver, Archers Ground-Robin, Red-faced
Woodland Warbler, Dusky Crimson-wing and Great Sparrowhawk.
On our final day in the park will either
be spent walking to the nearby crater lakes, or it may
be possible to walk to Dian Fossey’s grave and
the gorilla cemetery at her research station at Karisoke.
It was here that Dian was buried next to her beloved
silverback gorilla, Digit, and it is certainly a poignant
place worthy of our time.
DAY 15 (Saturday, 24th September)
IN FLIGHT
This morning we must sadly leave the Parc National des
Volcans and drive back to Kigali in time to catch an
early afternoon flight to Nairobi. Here we will connect
with a late evening Kenya Airways flight back to London.
DAY 16 (Sunday, 25th September)
LONDON
Food
and Accommodation:
All accommodation and meals are included
in the cost of this holiday, except for the evening
meal on Day 15. Accommodation is generally of a fairly
simple but comfortable nature, the majority of places
having private facilities.
Please note that you should not expect
to stay in luxurious lodges on this holiday. Whilst
facilities in Rwanda are improving hotels and lodges
are not of the standard to be found in other African
destinations.
Price Guide:
Total cost inc. flights - £3,045
Or (Kigali/Kigali) Excluding international flights
- £2,645
Call 01903 816500 for further details or email
info@exquisiteworld.com
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